How to Grow Garlic Chives (Chinese Chives) from Seed

By Paul Smith, pemdasgarden.com

Want a vegetable that comes back every year, asks for almost nothing, and tastes like garlicky springtime? Meet garlic chives — the perennial herb your garden has been waiting for.

Garlic chives (Allium tuberosum), also called Chinese chives, are the flat-leafed cousins of onion chives. Where onion chives taste mild and oniony, garlic chives bring a delicate garlic flavor that's perfect in stir-fries, dumplings, and egg dishes.

The best part? Plant once, harvest for years. These hardy perennials form expanding clumps that return each spring bigger and better.

Why Grow Garlic Chives From Seed?

Growing from seed is the most economical way to establish a generous patch. A single packet gives you dozens of plants — enough for the garden, containers, and gifts for fellow gardeners.

Seed-grown garlic chives are also remarkably vigorous. They establish deep root systems from the start and, once settled, need little more than occasional water and a yearly haircut.

Ready to start? Our Chinese garlic chives seeds are the classic flat-leaf variety, and our vegetable seed collection has everything for the edible garden.

Sowing: Timing And Technique

Garlic chives are cool-season perennials. Sow seeds in spring after the last frost, or in late summer for plants that establish before winter.

Depth: Plant seeds ¼ inch deep (Utah State Extension recommends ¼ inch for all chives). Cover lightly with fine soil or vermiculite.

Spacing: Thin or transplant seedlings to 4–6 inches apart in all directions. For a lush clump effect, plant in groups of 5–7 seedlings per spot.

Soil: Rich, well-drained, moist, and fertile soil. Work compost into the top 6 inches before planting.

Temperature: Seeds germinate best at 60–70°F (15–21°C), usually within 7–14 days. A heat mat speeds things indoors.

Tip: Soaking seeds in warm water (around 95–99°F / 35–37°C) for 4–5 hours before sowing can improve germination.

Growing On: From Seedling To Clump

Garlic chive seedlings start as fine grass-like blades. They look delicate, but don't be fooled — they're building the root system that will power years of harvests.

Transplanting: Move seedlings outdoors when they're 3–4 inches tall and all frost danger has passed. Harden off over 7–10 days first.

Water: Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Mulch with straw or shredded leaves to conserve moisture.

Feeding: A light application of balanced fertilizer or compost tea monthly during the growing season keeps leaves lush. Once plants reach 5–10 leaves, they're established enough for regular feeding.

First-year patience: The plants take a season or two to reach full size. Leaves get broader and more flavorful each year as the clump matures.

The Flower Question: To Deadhead Or Not?

In mid to late summer, garlic chives send up stems topped with globes of starry white flowers. They're gorgeous — and a magnet for bees and beneficial insects.

Here's the catch: garlic chives are rampant self-seeders. If you let every flower go to seed, you'll have chive seedlings everywhere next spring. (In some regions they're even considered invasive.)

Our advice: Enjoy some flowers for the pollinators and your table — the blooms are edible and delicious in salads. But deadhead most flower heads before seeds mature to keep your patch where you want it. Snip the whole flower stem back to the base.

Or embrace it: If you have space, let a patch naturalize. A drift of white garlic chive flowers in August is genuinely beautiful.

Harvesting: The Cut-And-Come-Again Herb

Start harvesting when leaves are 6–8 inches tall. Using scissors, cut leaves to within 1–2 inches of the soil — the plant regrows quickly from the base.

The haircut rule: Give the whole clump a haircut every 3–4 weeks. Regular cutting keeps leaves young and tender — older leaves get tough and lose flavor.

Kitchen uses: Chop into dumpling fillings, stir into scrambled eggs, fold through fried rice, or use as a garlicky garnish. The flat leaves hold up to cooking better than onion chives.

Preserving: Snip and freeze chopped leaves in small bags for winter use. Dried garlic chives lose flavor, so freezing is the way.

Dividing And Long-Term Care

Every 3–4 years, clumps benefit from division. In late winter or early spring, dig up the dormant clump and tease it apart into sections of 4–6 shoots. Replant at the same depth.

Division rejuvenates tired clumps and gives you free plants to expand the patch or share. It's the perennial gardener's favorite kind of multiplication.

Winter care: In cold climates, the tops die back with hard frost. Mulch the crown with straw and the roots will return in spring. Garlic chives are hardy to USDA zone 3.

Troubleshooting

Seedlings everywhere? You skipped deadheading. Pull unwanted seedlings while small, or mulch heavily to suppress them.

Yellowing leaves? Usually overwatering or poor drainage. Chives like moist, not soggy. Check that containers have drainage holes.

Thin, weak growth? The clump needs dividing, or it's hungry. Feed with compost and divide if the center looks crowded.

Onion flies or thrips? Rare, but possible. Floating row covers prevent most pest issues. Healthy, vigorous plants shrug off minor damage.

Garden tools that help: count back from your frost date with the Seed Starting Calculator, and confirm your hardiness zone with the Gardening Zone Lookup on our gardening tools hub.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between garlic chives and onion chives?
Garlic chives (Allium tuberosum) have flat leaves and a mild garlic flavor; onion chives have hollow round leaves and an onion flavor. Both are perennial and easy to grow. We carry both — try our onion chive seeds alongside the garlic type.

How long do garlic chives live?
Indefinitely, with division every few years. Individual clumps can produce for a decade or more.

Can I grow garlic chives in pots?
Absolutely. A 6–8 inch pot holds a productive clump. Container growing also neatly solves the self-seeding issue.

When will seed-grown plants be ready to harvest?
Light harvests in the first year once leaves reach 6 inches; full production from year two onward.

Are the flowers really edible?
Yes — the white blooms and unopened buds have a pleasant garlicky bite. Scatter over salads or stir into dishes at the last minute.

Will garlic chives survive winter in my zone?
They're hardy to zone 3. In zones 3–5, mulch the crown after the tops die back. Timing varies by climate region — in mild-winter areas they're nearly evergreen.

Wrapping Things Up!

Garlic chives are the closest thing to a free lunch in the vegetable garden. Sow once, harvest for years, share the divisions, and enjoy those beautiful white summer flowers.

Start your patch with our Chinese garlic chives seeds, browse the vegetable seed collection, and check our Growing Guides — including how to grow Dukat dill — for more. Happy growing! 🌱